In Search of the Pitcher of Nectar鈥攁 book about pilgrimage, but is it?
Authored by Kalkut aka Samaresh Bose, this travelogue narrates the author鈥檚 experience of visiting the Kumbh-mela, the holy site of the confluence of three rivers, Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati, at Prayag, where pilgrims bathe at a designated time of the year. According to Hindu mythology, the nectar of immortality, amrita, arising out of the churning of oceans by gods and asuras, was spilled from the pot, kumbh, in this location. The seekers believe that bathing in the confluence is a means to atonement or penance for past sins.
The narrator commences on this journey with the desire not to achieve atonement, but to learn about life, about people. He is amazed and inspired by every character he meets, whether it is his fellow passengers on the train, sadhus and devotees like Mahavir and Ramjidasi at the festival, or the family he shares a tent with.
Through the narrator鈥檚 eyes, one is also able to discern the double standards of masses of people come together on the same journey, but are unable to leave behind their social prejudices, classist behaviour, their weakness for sensual pleasure, their addictions, their personal tragedies and sorrows鈥攁ll in the hope of God taking their pain away with one dip in the holy waters.
'Amrito Kumbher Sondhane' is a long story/novella written by Samaresh Basu under the pen name of 'Kalkut'. It was published in 1954 and can be deduced as a partial fictionalization of the author's experience of visiting the Kumbha-mela, the holy site of the confluence of 3 rivers (Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati) where pilgrims bathe at a designated time of the year. According to Hindu mythology, the nectar of immortality (amrita) was spilled from the pot (kumbha) in this location. This is a very famous pilgrimage site in India and even Mark Twain has been known to visit it in 1895 The author/narrator mentions at the beginning that his purpose for visiting this pilgrimage is not religious; he rather wants to come into contact with various sort of people who take this pilgrimage and thereby gather some unique experiences. The book starts with his experiences on the crowded train to Allahabad and how he meets certain people there. In the fair he comes across various people and learns their diverse life stories and gains a new aspect of looking at life. It is these takeaways that the narrator considers as his pot of nectar.
Notable among these mentions is of the 'Avadhut' sect, or the 'grihi sanyasis', who lead a normal family life and yet aim to attain enlightenment through their life experiences and yogic rituals. This is strikingly similar to the Mahayana sect of Buddhism which preaches a similar concept. This also reminds me of Herman Hesse's Siddharta, where the protagonist achieves enlightenment after living out a complete family life with its ups and downs.
Another matter touched upon in the book is the secret rituals of the sages, which bear resemblance to the 'deha-tatwa' principles in Bauls and Fakirs of Bengal.
Another take away from the book is its portrayal of the spirit of Tagore Songs (Rabindrasangeet), with Rabindrnath portrayed as a Baul to those who haven't heard of him (in accordance with Nandalal Basu's painting of Raibaul). The narrator describes how even the less literate people are enthralled by the philosophy of Baulistic Tagore songs. This imparts an important lesson that, to appreciate Tagore's genius(for his puja porjay songs), perhaps sophistication and musical sense are not so much required as are simplicity, depth and maturity of though and a certain amount of spirituality.
The book really takes off after 40 pages and from there, it is really worth every bit. It also showcases the author's unique way of perceiving the world and human nature. This is the first ever work of Samaresh Basu which I ventured to read, but it seems like I will be back to explore more of his writings.
LANGUAGE IS THE TOUCHSTONE In Search of the Pitcher of Nectar Samaresh Bose Translated by Nirmal Kanti Bhattacharjee Niyogi Books INR 450/
While translations have the benefit of opening up the wide world of literature to those who don鈥檛 understand Indian languages, the translator鈥檚 task is one of great responsibility since he or she acts as a go-between conveying concepts through the nuances of language.
In Samaresh Bose鈥檚 seminal work the issue of conceptual meaning begins from the cover where the author 鈥� more usually known to Bengalis as Samaresh Basu 鈥� through his original Bengali title 'Amrita Kumbher Sandhaney' used the word 鈥楰umbh鈥� to refer not just to a pitcher but also the Kumbh Mela in which the narrative is set. Admittedly the book could not have been entitled In Search of the Kumbh of Nectar, but the matter of Kumbh Mela and the Manthan vessel seem to call for clarification for the less aware through an explanation of the story behind the mela - the myth of the gods and demons fighting for possession of amrita or nectar to give them immortality. The pen name Kalkut, which Bose first used in this book and which he later used for his other travel writing, too links to the churning since Kalkut was the venom that dripped from the mouth of Shiva鈥檚 snake while the manthan was in progress and was swallowed by the God to save the world. The pseudonym has to it an implication of sarcasm and sharpness, the piercing gaze of the writer who cannot be deceived.
The narrative that opens up 'In Search of the Pitcher of Nectar' is a travelogue 鈥� to use a modern term - about the quest for faith and how it blinds all those who search for its magic, a voyage through physical and spiritual space. The quest arises out of the original churning and its evolution into a local habitation and name down the centuries. Today In Search of the Pitcher of Nectar would be called a cross genre work, a mix of autobiography, travelogue and philosophy.
As most Indian travel journeys and especially those in Bengal always began in the past, Bose鈥檚 quest starts in a juddering train with jostles for space and a plethora of elbows and legs thrown all over. The writer records conversations of those around him, people who are moved by a determination to find something but who are unsure as to what exactly that is. Bose comes to us as an anonymous onlooker someone who listens to the voices around him, the chaos of grief and arguments 鈥� including a man looking for eternal life but who dies of tuberculosis before the train even crosses Bihar, or a physically challenged singer who has to be carried but insists on being part of the pilgrimage. In a sense a kind of Chaucerian 'Kumbh Tales', though all the characters are not delineated with such depth since Bose鈥檚 ultimate aim is different from Chaucer鈥檚.
The picture of Kumbh Mela that Bose paints so vividly is not very different from today鈥檚 jostling at the confluence. There is the same mix of sadhus, people looking for a spiritual fix, singers, hucksters and widows. The same tented life and bitter cold counterpointed by those who dare to brave the freezing waters before dawn breaks. The writer walks from one end of the mela to the other huddled in his overcoat observing and wondering what it is that people have come to find. There are beautiful women with sinuous braids, large liquid eyes. ex courtesans who have become devotional singers and a host of stories of heartbreak and hunger, including a caf茅 owner who wants to be writer himself.
Samaresh Bose鈥檚 narrative and the variety of the characters whom he meets come through strongly heightened by the mix of dialogue, occasional Anglo Indian English like 鈥榟ow you all are鈥� and very Indian English with dropped articles. The text is made more complex and challenging for a translator by references to characters from Bankimchandra鈥檚 novels, Kapalkundala and Nabakumar, however these, along with the varying types of kinship referred to in the text, have been explained through a glossary.
The translation is a gallant attempt to portray Bose鈥檚 delving into: 'our own strangeness in the mirror of the beauty of lakhs of people鈥� and a worthwhile exploration for those interested in both issues of faith and the Kumbh Mela.
For a greater part of humanity, religious beliefs, and faith acts as the driving force that propels them to do things that are often beyond the boundaries of rationality and practicality. However, the idea of divine blessings and the quest for the possibility of reaching a state of spiritual liberation is strong enough to make every pain, and every inconvenience worth it.
In this travelogue, Samaresh Bose takes you through a journey that may seem like a pilgrimage at the beginning but as you go on, you will realize that his account has nothing to do with pilgrimage but everything to do with witnessing the living, breathing spirit of humanity and their faith in the supreme.
To be honest, I had heard about this book a lot from my father because he is an avid reader of the author鈥檚 work, however, the first time I picked up this book a few months back, I could not get into it. So, I put it aside for some other time. But yesterday, out of nowhere I decided that I was ready to pick it up again. And let me tell you, I finished the book page to page in one sitting.
This book for me is an emotion rather than a literary work. The vibrant descriptions and the raw picturization of the journey breathed life into it and I was transported back in time as if to witness it all in its full glory. The myriad of emotions, temperaments, and nature of humanity stood starkly naked amidst the letters in this book and it felt overwhelming at times to perceive the fact that nothing matters when it comes to the question of faith.
I don鈥檛 know why I felt so heavy with emotions when I finished this book but I think it has something do to with my attachment to the characters of this book and my emotional involvement in the journey. If I ever get better at reading Bengali, the first book I am going to pick up is definitely going to the original version of this book. However, I think that Nirmal Kanti Bhattacharjee has done a beautiful job with the translation.
I don鈥檛 know how strong your faith in the Supreme is or if you are more practical than religious, but I would highly recommend this book to you.