Kapka Kassabova was born and raised in Sofia, Bulgaria in the 1970s and 1980s. Her family emigrated to New Zealand just after the fall of the Berlin Wall, and she spent her late teens and twenties in New Zealand where she studied French Literature, and published two poetry collections and the Commonwealth-Writers Prize-winner for debut fiction in Asia-Pacific, Reconnaissance.
In 2004, Kapka moved to Scotland and published Street Without a Name (Portobello, 2008). It is a story of the last Communist childhood and a journey across post-communist Bulgaria. It was short-listed for the Dolman Travel Book Award.
The music memoir Twelve Minutes of Love (Portobello 2011), a tale of Argentine tango, obsession and the search for home, was short-listed for the Scottish Mortgage Investment Trust Book Awards.
Villa Pacifica (Alma Books 2011), a novel with an equatorial setting, came out at the same time.
Border: a journey to the edge of Europe (2017 Granta/ Greywolf) is an exploration of Europe's remotest border region.
Her essays and articles have appeared in The Guardian, The Times Literary Supplement, Vogue, The Sunday Times, The Scottish Review of Books, The NZ Listener, The New Statesman, and 1843 Magazine.
Update in 2025: I liked it even better this time, probably because I read it when travelling around Ohrid and Prespa. The fragmentary nature didn鈥檛 really bother me, as I read it in a fragmentary way, too. Kassabova surely runs into an extraordinary amount of wise locals, but I regardless of any potential poetic license it was a great companion for this trip (and together with Border, it was also the reason for this trip in the first place).
Original review: Let me start with two caveats. First, I believe this book is a completely different experience for readers who live in the region or know it well. I cannot adequately judge whether the numerous sensitivities and conflicts have been handled fairly, although Kassabova always seems extremely evenhanded to me. The other caveat is that if I could pick only one of her books, I鈥檇 go for Border (which I adored). It has a clearer focus and the analysis is deeper; I think it was much longer in the making than To the Lake, which seems a bit rushed, less fully digested and settled in comparison. That said, it鈥檚 still a very good book and all the strengths of Border are evident here as well. I really like Kassabova鈥檚 voice, some poets who are well suited to prose write like this: with lyricism and great rhythm, but without wasting words. She is observant, has empathy and a deep curiosity about the world that I appreciate. I also like that she doesn鈥檛 try to fit one genre, much of the power of her books comes from how she uses whatever tool seems best, blends the personal and the general, history with travel writing, literature with nature, treating all subject matters with equal respect. The juxtapositions work really well, she can go from the gorgeous cherry orchards to the horrors of the Hoxha regime in a heartbeat. This style is a clever way to capture things that can never be captured fully, in a linear and orderly fashion anyway. Sometimes it can get too much, it can be difficult to keep track of all the people and the places (and the wars) and you are no longer sure what point the book is making exactly. But of course it doesn鈥檛 have to have one, ultimate, unambiguous message to everyone and that鈥檚 completely fine with me.
The Republic of North Macedonia. Not one of the well known Balkan countries and certainly not well known to me at all. The author uses her family links to the area with an impressive knowledge of history and an empathetic manner to get people to talk. Its is an impressive effort as this is one complex area of religions, cultures, family ties and fluid borders and frequent changes in allegiances.
Kapka Kassabova writes with such compassion about the Balkans鈥攃ompassion for histories intimate and grand, for the hurt children we used to be, for place and geography. Being from the region she writes about, I found that this book made me feel seen and known, gasping with relief and recognition as I made my way through it. Between this gem of a book and Border, she is by far one of my favorite writers working today.
September 2023 update: I am rereading this before my upcoming trip to Lake Ohrid!
Review from September 2021: Before the virus completely took over 2020, and made it almost impossible to travel without a two-week quarantine, my boyfriend and I had planned a trip to North Macedonia. We were intending to end our holiday with a wild swim at Lake Ohrid, somewhere we have wanted to visit for years. We are hoping that we will be able to embark on this trip at some point during 2021, but for now, I reached for the closest thing I could find - Kapka Kassabova's non-fiction title To the Lake: A Balkan Journey of War and Peace.
The Balkans is an area which I have travelled in relatively extensively already, but I find it fascinating to see regions which I love - as well as those which I have yet to visit - through the eyes of someone who is somehow connected to the physical place. Kassabova's maternal grandmother grew up in the town of Ohrid, beside the lake, which lies 'within the mountainous borderlands of North Macedonia, Albania, and Greece'. Lake Ohrid, and also Lake Prespa, which can be found relatively nearby, are located in 'one of Eurasia's most historically diverse areas', and are the two oldest lakes in Europe. Ohrid and Prespa are joined by an underground river, and span these aforementioned borders.
'By exploring on water and land the stories of poets, fishermen, and caretakers, misfits, rulers, and inheritors of war and exile,' declares the blurb, 'Kassabova uncovers the human history shaped by the lakes.' Alongside her personal journey to reach her family's roots, the author makes 'a deeper enquiry into how geography and politics imprint themselves upon families and nations.'
For Kassabova, this region, which has housed 'generations of my predecessors... is a realm of high altitudes and mesmeric depths, eagles and vineyards, orchards and old civilisations, a land tattooed with untold histories.' The focus of To the Lake, as outlined in the introduction, is as follows: 'Geography shapes history - we generally accept this as a fact. But we don't often explore how families digest big historo-geographies, how these sculpt our inner landscape, and how we as individuals continue to influence the course of history in invisible but significant ways - because the local is inseparable from the global. I went to the Lakes to seek an understanding of such forces.'
The first chapter of To the Lake opens with Kassabova's recollections of her maternal grandmother's death. Her descriptions of her grandmother, Anastassia, which she goes on to reveal piece by piece, are so vibrant: 'Surrounded by the mediocrity, conformity and mendacity that a totalitarian system thrives on, Anastassia lived with zest, speaking her mind in a society where half the population didn't have a mind and the other half were careful to keep it to themselves.' Her descriptions of her family particularly really stand out; she describes her mother thus, for example: 'She always felt to me precariously attuned to life, as if born rootless, as if needing an external force to earth her.'
Some of Kassabova's writing is undoubtedly beautiful - for instance, when she writes 'Ohrid made you feel the weight of time, even on a peaceful evening like this, with only the screech of cicadas and the shuffle of old women in slippers' - but there are some quite abrupt sentences and sections to be found within To the Lake. It does not feel entirely consistent at times, and Kassabova does have a tendency to jump from quite an involved history of the area to a conversation with someone who lives there, and often back again, without any delineation. This added a disjointed feel to the whole. However, the value and interest of the information which she presents was thankfully too strong for this to put me off as a reader.
To the Lake is certainly thorough; it was not a book which I felt able to read from cover to cover in one go, as it is so intricate - both in terms of the history and geography of the region, and of Kassabova's own family. There is a great deal within the book which explores national divides throughout the lake region, as well as the religions which are practiced. Kassabova seems to focus far more upon the differences of the people whom she meets, than their similarities. There are some brief nods to fascinating Slavic folktales along the way, which I wish had been elaborated upon. Regardless, To the Lake is an important book, and an ultimately satisfying one, which I would highly recommend.
There are parts of Europe that rarely get mentioned, these out of the way places often have turbulent and complicated pasts. One of these places is mountainous borderlands of North Macedonia, Albania, and Greece. The border of the three countries passes through the two ancient lakes formed by tectonic activity and are joined by underground rivers, Ohrid and Prespa.
It is a place that is deeply rooted deeply in Kapka Kassabova鈥檚 heart too, her maternal grandmother was a huge influence on her and she came from the region. It was somewhere where she wants to go to and spend time there, but it hadn鈥檛 been appropriate until now. It was a region that had known conflict for years, but there had been peace for a little while now and there was no time like the present.
Amongst all the history here though and there has been an awful lot of history; wars and constantly changing borders and regimes, it is a place scarred deeply by conflict. It is now coming to terms with peace, and she is here for the human stories and to see if there are any traces of her family left. Landing at the airport in Albania, she immediately feels at home, the men who are hoping for work all look like her cousins. They pass through a medieval gate into the town on Ohrid on the way to the villa she was staying at. The owners looked familiar and it didn鈥檛 take long to realise that there was a family link.
Form this initial meeting she heads off around the region to meet and talk with the people of the region, from the fishermen, mothers, aunts, poets and border guards. She learns about how and when Sufism appeared in the region, speaks the those that got across the Iron Curtain and visits monasteries high in the mountains and walks in 2000-year-old tombs that were untouched until recently. But all of the trip out centre on these amazing lakes
As she travels between town and villages and crossing the lakes she keeps bumping into people that look familiar. Quite often after a short conversation with them, she invariably finds out that they are related in some way or another. And it is that sort of thing that sums this book up, it is a little-understood area of the world and through her wonderful prose, Kassabova untangles the people from the politics. Slowly the rifts are being healed, even when she is there it is finally agreed with Greece that Macedonia can formally be called North Macedonia. With all these things though, it is a process that has taken far too long, but it does show that even after years of conflict they still have so much more in common than the differences between them.
North Macedonia, you owe me. If I had a sigh-ometer, it would have run out of power very quickly. This has been one of the hardest around the world challenge destinations yet. The place is full of human suffering. It felt like the author interviewed every person she came across and said 鈥渢ell me about your worst experience鈥�. So much chronic grief.
I was into it for the first few chapters as it was densely packed with information and experience but it wore off pretty quickly. Here is one snippet:
鈥淲hen I sat under my cherry tree at night, sensing the vast presence of the lake, I almost expected to see the outlines of my own mind projected on those walls, as in some opera arena of the collective unconscious where everything is laid bare.鈥�
A bit too flowery? Can you tell the author is a poet.
Another thing was the structure and lack of engagement. The premise is that the author returns to her ancestral land. She starts with the experiences of her relatives or people that knew her relatives, but it soon gets formulaeic. It was like, I caught a boat across the lake. A poet once crossed this lake. The captain told me his life story. They escaped via the lake. Centuries ago someone else escaped across the lake. But ahhhh, the lake, it binds you.
As much as I want to give this book one star, the book is so cram packed with local information. The sources of information were thesis-worthy and deserving of credit. Having said that, it felt more non-fiction than a travelogue or semi-memoir. The description of every location was done very well too. The underwater river systems and formations of the lakes were pretty cool. Despite my opinion, I think this book would appeal to many readers.
Prije dvije godine po prvi put sam 膷itala knjigu bugarsko-engleske knji啪evnice Kapke Kassabove. Bila je to 鈥濭ranica 鈥� putovanje na rub Europe鈥�, gdje je opisivala rubno podru膷je Balkana i Europe, trome膽u Bugarske, Gr膷ke i Turske. Prvi dojam o toj knjizi bio je blago razo膷aranje 鈥� knjiga se, manje nego putopisom, vi拧e bavila narodnim vjerovanjima, skidanjem uroka, a bilo je tu i babe Vange i 沤eljezne zavjese. Ipak, kako volim putopisnu prozu, posegnula sam i za najnovijom njezinom knjigom, 鈥濸rema jezeru鈥� (prijevod na hrvatski: Patricija Horvat; izdava膷 Fraktura, 2024.), gdje se bavi podru膷jem dvaju grani膷nih jezera na rubu Makedonije, Albanije i Gr膷ke 鈥� Ohridskim i Prespanskim jezerom. Za razliku od 鈥濭ranice鈥�, ova knjiga pru啪ila mi je pun 膷itala膷ki u啪itak 膷istog dokumentarizma. Slijede膰i isprva povijest vlastite obitelji, Kassabova najprije putuje u Ohrid i ondje boravi u nekoliko navrata po vi拧e dana, detaljno obilaze膰i prvo makedonsku, a zatim i albansku stranu jezera. Uzimaju膰i kao polazni motiv makedonske pjesme (Tga za jug, Makedonsko devoj膷e, Biljana platno bele拧e), Kassabova uvjerljivo do膷arava tugaljivu, ali i 膷arobnu atmosferu ohridskog kraja, pripovijedaju膰i usput i obiteljsku povijest. O baki Anastaziji i prabaki Ljubici (jezivog obiteljskog mota 鈥� 鈥瀞avr拧enstvo ili smrt鈥� ), tetki Tatjani koju jo拧 uvijek pamte u Ohridu, o bijegu pradjeda Koste preko jezera, okupljanju obitelji u Sofiji. Postupno se pri膷a 拧iri dalje od obiteljske povijesti 鈥� prelaskom na albansku stranu upoznajemo neke druge ljude, nevjerojatnih sudbina, koji su nakon Drugog svjetskog rata zavr拧ili s 鈥瀔rive鈥� strane jezera i ostali zadugo zaklju膷ani u Hoxhinu re啪imu, odakle se i Jugoslavija 膷inila kao obe膰ana zemlja u koju je bijeg bio prakti膷ki nemogu膰 (doznajemo, ipak, i pri膷u obitelji kojoj je to uspjelo). S vodi膷em Angelom, Kassabova se penje na planinu Gali膷icu, jo拧 uvijek pro拧aranu tragovima borbi iz Prvog svjetskog rata. Gali膷ica je tako svojevrstan uvod u drugo jezero iz ove knjige 鈥� manje razvikano, hladnije i mra膷nije Prespansko jezero. Dok je Ohrid okrenut turizmu, na Prespi toga gotovo da i nema, malobrojni hoteli zjape prazni, a stanovnici tog zaba膷enog kraja sve su rje膽i. U Prespi 膰emo ponovo 膷uti i jezivu pri膷u o porazu vojske cara Samuila (kao i o tradiciji kopanja o膷iju koja je, 膷ini se, ukorijenjena u tom kraju), ali otkriti i neke detalje iz suvremenije povijesti koju su ispisali Veliki igra膷i 鈥� Churchill i Staljin, dijele膰i svoj vojni utjecaj na Balkanu na salveti. Posebno pogavlje posve膰eno je zbivanjima u Gr膷kom gra膽anskom ratu i njegovim stra拧nim posljedicama za stanovni拧tvo sjeverozapadne Gr膷ke, koje je mahom bilo slavenskog porijekla. I jo拧 mnogo toga na膰i 膰e se u ovoj opse啪noj, a ipak nimalo dosadnoj knjizi, pisanoj jednostavnim, pristupa膷nim stilom, tako da se 膷itatelj pomalo osje膰a kao da i sam putuje tim krajem, gdje su se narodi i jezici stolje膰ima mije拧ali, a granice su naj膷e拧膰e prisilno nametnute.
O autori膷inom nastojanju da bude 拧to objektivnija i da nikog ne povrijedi u svojoj interpretaciji, dovoljno govori posljednji odlomak iz Uvoda: 鈥濻 obzirom na slo啪enost i osjetljivost dijela materijala u ovoj knjizi, osjetite li da je va拧e mi拧ljenje nedovoljno zastupljeno usprkos mojim nastojanjima da budem uklju膷iva i pravedna, molim da mi oprostite.鈥�
2.5 stars. I went on a vacation to the lake of Ohrid which is why I wanted to read more about it. I did find the subject of the balkan wars ( the book talks a lot about the history of the people of the lake and the war) interesting but also very hard to follow.
I'm due to visit the exact area covered by this book in a few months' time: my very first time in this part of the world. This book has done a lot to whet my appetite, give me some grounding in the complex history and culture of the area, and make me understand how very much there is to find out. This is no simple time line, involving a single ethnic strand. This area has for many many centuries been a stopover for people crossing to and from Europe in every possible direction: an area to conquer and subvert: and area to impose ideas from major world religions upon (though till recently, these religious groups largely lived together in harmony. More recently, attempts were made, specifically by Communist rule, to quash ancient cultures.
How to explain all this? Kassabova doesn't attempt a text book. Instead, she journeys round the region, looking up old family friends, making new connections, and generally getting to know a wide range of people. And she tells their stories, and those of their families. In this way she illuminates the history of the area, and more specifically shows the impact of political, religious and economic change on the lives of those involved. This is a story of people who call themselves Albanians, Macedonians, and Greeks. It's also the story of their landscapes and the towns and communities in which they live. It's fascinating.
There were some really beautiful lines and passages in this book and lots of food for thought about a region I was completely unfamiliar with before. However, the number of characters, unfamiliar words, unfamiliar places, and centuries of history packed into this book often left me feeling more confused and lost than engaged.
(2.5 stars, so 3, because it is better than just 2) * When I started this book, I thought I would read something more personal, like a family saga. And it was like that at first, but then drifted to stories of other people in the area and then drifted even more to stories from a different lake. And the stories, as the lakes, might be connected but put a distance between the reader and the personal. I did enjoy those stories, though, and I did connect with them, because, I am greek. I come from the balkans, I know the struggles and the history, and the conflicts, and my family has experienced (some of) the things described. And that's when the frustration started creeping in. In her introduction, the author says that she tried to put her bias aside. The funny thing with bias is that it's hard to put aside. I know because I was also trying to forget mine. And there were things that were colored in one way, completely disregarding the other side. I won't get into details, I will name just a couple of examples. The author seems that she doesn't understand Greece's objection towards Northern Macedonia to call their country Macedonia. There is no effort to explain it, I think she even finds it irrational. Yet whenever she refers to the greek part of the geographical region of Macedonia, she calls it Aegean Macedonia. So the country is called Macedonia (North Macedonia, the mutually accepted name, comes into the narrative at the end of the book), the greek region, is called Aegean Macedonia, and she pretends that she can't see a problem with that. Another issue I had was with the stories from her trip to Big Prespa, the lake that is divided between Albania, North Macedonia, and Greece. In the albanian and north macedonian part, everything is fine. But in the greek part, she travels to multiple villages, she goes all the way to Florina and Kastoria and she can't find one, just one person that identifies as greek. Seriously? The personal stories of the people she met, were very touching as I said, heartbreaking, touching the collective trauma of all the people that live in the Balkans, but were a bit too much, too repetitive, too similar. And the last chapter was way too spiritual for my liking. I did like and dislike the book at the same time, and I sure won't forget it easily!
What a ride reading this book was! I picked it up coz I was interested in the subject matter of a book set on the lakes, but I stuck on for the detailed history lessons Kassabova gave while taking me through the lives of everyday people around Macedonia and Albania. The book did not start well for me, with the author delving into her family history and getting into details of her grandmother Anastasia and her expectations from her loved ones. It all felt familiar with the Indian family setup, and I didn't get the point of going into details of her life or how she shaped her progeny. However, I am glad I hung around, coz the book picked up, and how, after that!
Only after I read this book did I realize how much I did not know about the world. I knew of Albania and Kanun, thanks to Ismail Kadare's Broken April. I only vaguely knew of Macedonia, but nothing of significance. But reading this book gave me so much insight into the people, the land, their rulers, some of their struggles, the ravages of the war on these people and their lives.
My heart broke while reading the travails of these people, all of whom are similar to each other but divided because of the borders, the borders themselves made of outrageous stuff, the current struggles in these lands (the Prespa agreement in 2019 over Greece agreeing to the name of North Macedonia, whitewashing of all Cyrillic alphabet in Greece, fear to speak Macedonian in parts of Northern Greece) - all of these left my heart very heavy!
All of these were new to me, and I hope to read more about these - Reading about how Albanians endured Enverism under Enver Hoxha; the continuing impact of besa, kanun, the Albanization, the biscuit-factory line of everything in Albania; how Zachariadis got away with his rule in Greece; Balkanization and the resulting Balkan wars dividing the same people into chunks of lands - these are a reality so many Balkan people live with! I realized how first world my problems are all (including the civil rights ones I advocate for) , and how I have to keep a bigger picture with an eye on the struggles people have for basic freedoms.
Like the author closes the book, the only way to get away from this never-ending wheel of war and peace is for people to find within themselves the strength to break away... :-(
Strongly recommend this book if you have a desire to know what goes on around the world. It will make you sad, but the book will make you more aware of your world.
I'm not sure how to rate this - Beautiful writing, and a haunting tone. Though I don't come from the exact same background as Kassabova, my own family history is complicated by the tumultuous politics of Eastern Europe. Ohrid and Prespa are not my home, but seeing the author long for a past and a connection evokes those same feelings in me of the places I've come from but have yet to witness. I would recommend this to those with interest in the region as it does require some historical context, though the essays in here transcend place with universal feelings of family and culture.
A gorgeous book which is both informative about the history of the Macedonian peoples and an introspective, poetic reflection on the personal and familial weight of history. It is about exile, identity and historical memory and how all these elements are internalised by people. But also how, in turn, people themselves reproduce these identities and schisms which, if left unchecked, can become extremely destructive. Or as Kassabova puts it: war and peace begin within us.
A really really good book about a region I had honestly never heard about. I love Kassabova's Borders and this book is not as dramatic as Borders, but touches on the same concepts of division, war, identities, history, suffering and inheritance. I loved how deeply rooted Kassabova is in the region and her subject matter. Some of the stories are very harrowing. I would recommend this book.
W stron臋 Ochrydy (dlaczego wydawca zmieni艂 oryginalny tytu艂?) to podr贸偶 ze 艣wiat艂a w ciemno艣膰 i otch艂a艅: od s艂onecznej Ochrydy do mrocznej Prespy, z ciemno艣ci ku 艣wiat艂o艣ci i nadziei: ku maj膮cym pono膰 uzdrawiaj膮ca moc 藕r贸d艂om przy klasztorze 艣w. Nauma. Jak przekonuje Kassabova, kr膮g odziedziczonych po przodkach traum mo偶na przerwa膰, kismet mo偶na zmieni膰. A przynajmniej trzeba pr贸bowa膰, na przek贸r nacjonalistycznej narracji i rachunkom nie wyr贸wnanych krzywd.
Me dej茅 llevar demasiado por la tem谩tica regional a la hora de escoger este libro, y me ha decepcionado. Si bien es una historia (o un conjunto de vivencias) muy personales, tiernas y tr谩gicas, la narraci贸n no me ha capturado. Tira m谩s hacia la literatura biogr谩fica que hacia la de viajes, y habr铆a podido ahondar mucho m谩s en an茅cdotas o eventos de la pol铆tica contempor谩nea. Meh.