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Fascinating account of classic K2 ascents. Including his own in 1992. Mesmerizing to read how the early attemps paved the path for later success. Because of his own climb, Viesturs can compare how it was for him and how and why earlier and later ascents where successful or ended in disaster. Very insightful. And all very well researched.

Ed Viesturs comes across as a reasonable guy. Giving credit where it belongs. Risk adverse. Not grandstanding. But also critical where it seems warranted.
And the disaster on K2 of 2008 gave him pause to question is own expedition to K2 in 1992: That campaign “was the one most marked by ecstatic highs alternating with abysmal lows. And it was also the most morally complicated.�

The first chapter mainly describes the 2008 disaster on K2. 11 people died. Viesturs analyses what happened and why it went so horrible wrong. Very revealing.

Chapter two chronicals his own asceent of K2 in August 1992. The description of his preparations, struggles, frustrations with team members, the rescue of 2 climbers which thwarted his own first summit attempt, was mesmerizing to read.
It’s laced with diary notes from his own climb. And as he acknowledged, he is much more direct and critical there than he was on the mountain. It gives a very good perspective how mountaineers are. Some take huge risks. And then others have to rescue them. Viesturs is highly risk adverse, but he is well aware of “summit fever�. And many people died on their descent after reaching the top.

From here on Viesturs chronicles classic ascents. One might think that each chapter is about the same. All about ascent of the same mountain. And also of the same route: the Abruzzi Ridge. But they are very different. Different people make for different group dynamic. Each chapter had it’s own tidbits of mountaineering background.

What’s neat is that he compares those with his own experiences on the mountain. It gives a wonderful perspective.
He comments on group dynamics and leadership. Risk assessment and physical fitness. He gives explanations of why things went wrong or why people succeeded.

Those early expeditions (1938 and 1939), had to hike in 360 miles. A month long trek. Today it’s much shorter, but Viesturs confesses “that we moderns have lost some of the richness of the full expedition experience.�
Of course there is no way these expeditions can be compared with current ones. Today’s equipment is so much better. Getting to basecamp is peanuts. And the gear used to climb makes it so much easier.
In chaper 3 and 4 these early attempts are described. They would pave the way for all the subsequent (succesful) expeditions.

Chapter 4: The Great Mystery is fascinating. It’s mainly the story of Fritz Weissner. An amazing strong climber. Viesturs considers him one of the heroes of K2.

Then chapter 5: Brotherhood, emphasis the importance of team work. Team spirit. Expedition members were specifically selected for their social skill. They should be able to get along together. Viesturs calls it “a stroke of genius�. People who trust and like each other will be more successful than a team solely build upon skill. And it would appear that this was what saved them from disaster in the end. Totally different from the 1939 expedition. And also from the first successful Italian expedition descripbed in the next chapter: the Price of Conquest.

It’s sad to read about that Italian expedition. Seemingly the worst in the mountaineers urge to get to the top at all costs came to the foreground. With the unsung hero and renowned mountaineer Walter Bonatti as the victim.
My least favorite chapter.

The book ends with yet another disaster year: 1986: the Dangerous Summer.
This is a chapter that describes multiple ascents, by multiple teams. And much went wrong that summer.
I quote Viesturs, quoting Charles Houston: “outragious behaviour, intense rivalry, and disregard of mountain ethics..� is what caused many deaths.
As such a bit disjointed. I liked the chapters where only one expedition is described better.

In the final chapter; Epilogue: the Holy Grail, Viesters comments on current (2008) trends in mountaineering. And he is not happy what he observes. It should be about the beauty of the high country and the comradeship. Not about first this or first that. Like first winter ascents, or fastest ascent.

I really liked this book!