Å·±¦ÓéÀÖ

"The Emigrants" - Maurice Greiffenhagen - 1898

This is the family of 5, looking bleakly on after the steamboat as it deposited them on the shore.

Mary Lou wrote: "I've not yet read chapter 11, but would like to interject a few comments before moving on.

Just to add to the confusion about editions, volumes, etc., my copy is from a set of complete works, pub..."

Good questions and observations, Mary Lou. I’ll go back to Lucinda Hawksley’s book to see if she sheds any light on the luggage and writing desk. I somehow believe that George Washington Putnam was a faithful secretary but was also on hand for carrying and lifting and sundry other duties involved with travel..

My feelings about the prisons were that shedding light on them was good, but you know it did get a little suffocating, for sure.

Mary Lou wrote: "I can't help but notice the great number of people we've met with the names of George and/or Washington. 43 years after George Washington's death, he was still America's great hero."

I was noticing that, too! I'm curious about when that started to tail off, but the U.S. Social Security website records on names only go back to 1900, when it was the 429th most popular boy's name, so clearly not so popular as it was when American Notes was written. I wonder when it went into decline and why.

Shirley (stampartiste) wrote: "Chapter 11 (from Pittsburg to Cincinnati);

I can't begin to say how much I loved this chapter because Dickens witnessed first-hand, from a clueless perspective, a small part of the westward migrat..."

I love this context, Shirley. Thank you!

John, thank you for the link about the Cincinnati riots. I had no idea about them. Thank you for the link! So interesting.

Peter and Julie~. I'm glad you enjoyed my side notes on Chapter 11.

Jean~ You are so right about Dickens not understanding what he was witnessing on board that steamship. It would have been so useful if Mr. Putnam had spent time explaining to him this uniquely American experience. I'm sure Dickens would have been fascinated, and therefore lost a valuable opportunity of describing this historical moment in time. What a pity!

Where can we find out more about Dickens' 1868 trip? Your brief remark, Jean, about Dickens being "basically too weak to travel, and slowly killing himself" makes me want to learn more about this event in his life.

And thank you for the picture, Jean! The artist perfectly captured the despair in the old woman's face.

VOLUME TWO
Chapter The Fourth (or Chapter 12)

From Cincinnati to Louisville in another Western Steamboat; and from Louisville to Saint Louis in another. Saint Louis.

Dickens begins a 12 hour steamboat journey to Louisville on the Pike. He has a very detailed and lively discussion with a Choctaw Indian named Pitchlynn. This is Peter Pitchlynn, one of more famous Native Americans, who became a tribal chief that was well-respected for his education and diplomatic. You can sense this from their conversation, which covered American and English history.

The stop at Louisville presented very little of architectural or other visuals of interest. They quickly proceeded by another steamboat to a suburb called Portland. Dickens describes a funny "meeting" of two porkers (pigs). This portion of the journey required traversing a canal between the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Dickens describes meeting a native of Kentucky, generally thought to be very big and thus called the Kentucky Giant. Dickens describes this person as mild in demeanor and diet, despite his size.

Dickens finds this portion of the journey as not having much to offer visually, but does call the Mississippi the "great father" of rivers. It is an enormous river, miles wide at some points, running "liquid mud" and choked with mud. He drinks the muddy waters, as he is told is is considered wholesome, but finds it more like gruel.

They reach Saint Louis and Dickens describes at length a woman with a baby meeting up joyfully with her husband. They stay at a nice hotel called The Planters House, which he described as built like an English hospital.

He goes on to talk about the French portion of town and some of the Roman Catholic institutions there, including a college and convent and cathedral. Dickens does believe the climate when hot could make people disposed to fevers (he was correct), and mentions his wish to see the Prairie. He reserves that for the next chapter.

The Saint Louis portion of this journey is from April 10th to 14th. I have been to Saint Louis and the way Dickens describes the Mississippi is very much accurate. I remember looking across the river from Saint Louis and finding myself looking more at lake that stretched miles to the other side.

Although he visited in April, he was spot on about the possibility of fevers in warmer weather. I was there in June and the humidity was a bad as I have ever experienced. The huge river seemed a great frying pan of steaming water and it just made for a sweltering, heavy air. For sure there were probably mosquitos and disease back then from the water and swampy lands. Saint Louis is relatively flat and seemed almost sunken in a way because the Mississippi was high and teeming.

Just to the west of Saint Louis is Saint Charles, as nice a town as I have ever been to. It sits on the Missouri River. I do not believe Dickens visited it, though it would likely have been a good place to see.

Mary Lou wrote: "I've not yet read chapter 11, but would like to interject a few comments before moving on.

Just to add to the confusion about editions, volumes, etc., my copy is from a set of complete works, pub..."

Hi Mary Lou

Wow! Thank you for asking questions that are so practical in nature. I have never thought about what you ask. I’d love to know more if anyone has insights.

In Dickens’s very early days when he was a parliamentary/news reporter he did have to travel quite a bit so he had some experience with how to deal with unpleasant weather, horrid coach trips and challenges in how to record information. Hawksley’s book on ‘Dickens and Travel� does cover some of his early travel and trials.

But how and where to get their clothes washed, dried, repaired and replaced are excellent questions. You have suggested something that some enterprising critic should write about and some author should take it upon themself to write a book from Anne Browne’s point of view.

All day today I’m going to think about your post. ;-)

Shirley, thank you for your comments regarding the hardships that the midwestern settlers were facing in Chapter 11.

Jean, the illustration of "The Emigrants" captures Dickens' words so well!

Having finished our sojourn in Cincinnati, I've only one thing to add to your excellent comments. Namely, to echo your plaudits of David McCullough's books, including The Pioneers, which I wish I'd read more recently to better coincide with Amercan Notes. I have not yet read The Greater Journey.

I wrote Mr. McCullough a letter praising his work, and included a book plate which he kindly signed and returned to me. He died shortly thereafter. This is something I've never done before or since, and I'm so glad I was able to make this connection before his death. The bookplate is in my favorite book of his (thus far), John Adams.

Finally caught up! In chapter 12, Dickens seems to answer my question about a travel desk when he says, "Reading and writing on my knee, in our little cabin...". As I sit on my sofa in a climate-controlled environment (and in my pajamas, if I'm to provide a complete picture), I can't help but imagine, again, the many discomforts experienced on this trip.

I enjoyed the passages about Pitchlynn and Porter, and did just a bit of googling. I was interested to see that Pitchlynn is buried in Congressional Cemetery in DC, which was probably considered to be a great honor, though he might have preferred to be buried on his native land. Now I'm wondering about native American death practices and wondering how they were/ are laid to rest.

Wikipedia has an minor variation on Porter's meeting with Dickens:

"While exploring the United States with his wife, Charles Dickens sent word requesting an appearance by Porter aboard Dickens' steamship. Porter returned the message stating that since Dickens wanted to see him more than the other way around, then Dickens will come to him."

I wonder who received whom? Either way, Dickens seemed to find Porter amiable enough.

The people he meets! Authors, President Tyler, murderers, slaves and their owners, native Americans, giants.... it's quite an assortment! It almost makes the old woman in the rocker, and the young mother returning to her husband seem prosaic, and yet their stories are so poignant and memorable.

A piece about Dickens in Cincinnati:



I also noted that the City of Saint Louis does have a Dickens Avenue.

Mary Lou wrote: "In chapter 12, Dickens seems to answer my question about a travel desk when he says, "Reading and writing on my knee, in our little cabin..."

I was about to quote this to you, but in a way it still does not tell us, as the Victorians had writing desks which they balanced on their knees (or put on a little table). I have two belonging to my grandfather, one larger than the other. They are made of polished mahogany, portable and open up with a catch to have a surface to write on, blotter etc. One separates and has room to store important papers, pens, ink etc. I expect Dickens carried one of these round, containing his favourite fountain pen (which Mamie tells us Forster gave to her aunt Georgie after Dickens's death) and blue ink - his colour of choice.

Dickens was almost superstitious about his rituals, so somehow I can't see him without his working tools! After all, Catherine was allowed to take the largish portrait of their children with her, and in the first chapter Dickens describes the huge trunks they had with them.

But if there's nothing in Lucinda Hawksley's book (our side read, which John is looking in), I will look for one next time I'm at the museum in Doughty St. Maybe since she is now President of the Fellowship she might happen to be there ... but I'm a bit shy to ask in person!

I think your questions about Catherine are likely to be answered in The Other Dickens: A Life of Catherine Hogarth by Lillian Nayder - or there's quite a lot about her which Lillian Nayder made use of, in an earlier book by Michael Slater called Dickens and Women.

Thank you, Jean. I've read the Nayder book, and don't recall anything regarding wardrobe, packing for travel, etc., but it's entirely possible I've forgotten. I'll look for the Slater book, which I've not yet read.

Do please let us know if you find anything!

I was rereading Lucinda Hawksley’s book. She does not mention the luggage they brought. But I did note that by the time they reached Hartford, Connecticut, Catherine was suffering from exhaustion. They had to stay there an extra three or four days until she was well enough to resume travel.

ch 12 (vol II ch 4)

Excellent summary thanks John, now linked.

I really appreciated your personal response to the same geographical location. It makes such a difference to have a contemporary view, and does sound as though Charles Dickens was not too far off in describing how it still is now!

I was so interested in the noble Choctaw "Indian" Peter Pitchlynn, the famous Native American who became a tribal chief. Charles Dickens refers to a book where he is pictured and this is George Caitlin's Caitlin's Indians: Letters and Notes on the North American Indians. Two Volumes in One, with Four Hundred Illustrations Engraved from the Author's Original Paintings. Interestingly, he had practised law before becoming a painter.

Then in 1830 George Caitlin had begun an 8 year journey covering thousand of miles, sketching landscapes and peoples from 48 different tribes. These are still in use as a resource and are now in the Smithsonian Institute in Washington.

I found Peter Pitchlynn's words and his wisdom so poignant. He knew that his race was dying, and could do nothing about it. He knew the causes, yet had no resentment. I'm also struck by the simple fact that Charles Dickens and he met, and evidently conversed meaningfully. It seems incredible!



Charles Dickens says he recognised Pitchlynn's portrait in George Caitlin's book. This is one from 1842, in the National Portrait Gallery.

I've also been reading more about the Kentucky giants. I had thought this was folklore, and clearly Charles Dickens did too, as he refers obliquely to Jack and the giant killer in the section on the Alleghany Mountains (which I thought must be an earlier name for the Appalachians, but is apparently a subgroup of about 300 miles). Charles Dickens must have found it hard to grasp the scale of all this, just as it must be ludicrous to compare the sewer of the Thames with the swirling mud of the massive Mississippi.

Another part I particularly enjoyed was the anecdote about the young wife and baby. She was so desperate to be reunited with the baby's father, so lively - and had not yet developed the chronic listlessness of the other passengers - that I feared the worst. But
the end provided a real feel-good moment. 🥰Thank you for bringing me back to optimism, Mr. Dickens.

I am finally caught up with the book, and the comments - which are all wonderful.

I'm so glad Dickens wrote about meeting the Choctaw Chief. Sadly, Pitchlynn is right about his people's culture dying out. I sometimes marvel that there are any native tribes left in America. They are small in number, but they do exist, and modern-day travelers can visit their Reservations where they have diligently tried to preserve their cultures. I've been fortunate to spend time with my family on the Makah reservation here in Washington State. Taking my children there is one of my most cherished memories. It sounds like Dickens cherished his encounter with Pitchlynn as well, preserving the lithographed portrait he was sent. I wonder if that still exists.

Dickens was in St Louis in early April when it was filled with snow melt from areas north, thus unusually wide. I suspect that there were few, if any, dams on the river then. (I grew up with the mighty Mississippi part of my neighborhood, but much further north.)

I haven’t read chapter 12 yet but I do want to thank Shirley for her mention of Conrad Richter in her comments about chapter 11. I read that book years and years ago, possibly when I was in high school and loved it. I have always wanted to read it again and now this mention will hopefully push me to actually do so.

I loved this chapter too for all of the reasons cited and have noted, and enjoyed, Dickens change in writing style.

Now I’m on to read ch. 12. Sorry for the interruption.

Another slight diversion ... to Mary Lou

A friend here once recommended an interesting general book containing lots of pictures and details of artefacts, personal items such as his walking stick, etc. It shows his last main desk (now at Doughty St., the one we both - and doubtless many others - have posed next to!) and the lectern which is also there, and which he carted around for his reading tours. If you click on the cover to enlarge it, you can see a much smaller desk, with a hinged lid to raise, of the type we used at school. I still hope to find evidence of a portable one!

Just above the fanned out installments of a serial novel, you can see his travelling cutlery set, which Dickens took on his second American tour in 1867-8. It contains a steel spoon, knife and corkscrew that unfolds from the ivory case, marked with his initials.

Charles Dickens was very fastidious, and in American Notes for General Circulation we've been made aware of his distaste for shared public brushes, combs and other implements, so I'd guess that he made sure he never had to repeat the experience!

Shirley (stampartiste) wrote: "Where can we find out more about Dickens' 1868 trip? Your brief remark, Jean, about Dickens being "basically too weak to travel, and slowly killing himself" makes me want to learn more about this event in his life. ..."

Sorry for the delay, Shirley. 🙄 Several biographers include details, but the most complete account is in The Life of Charles Dickens, Vol. 3 by John Forster, chapters 15 and 16. In unabridged editions the level of detail in these and the touring chapters is astounding (e.g. measurements of his varying heart rate!) I wanted to link to those chapters for you, but the Gutenberg edition, although complete, does not have an active table of contents. I think you do have the book though, and if you read the last part of my review of vol 3 LINK HERE it might give you an idea (or perhaps remind you, if you've already read the book).

Mary Lou asked a good question about luggage and changes of clothes for our travelers. I don’t have an answer, just a generalization that people today change their clothes and bathe much more frequently than earlier generations. Plus, many or most of their clothes were made of fabrics that were not washable or easily washed. I think clothes were more often just brushed off and perhaps spots wiped off and then maybe aired. Perhaps their underwear was rinsed in a sink.

VOLUME TWO
Chapter The Fifth (or Chapter 13)

A Jaunt to the Looking-glass Prairie and back

Dickens departs on a male only "jaunt" to look at the prairie and return. Catherine likely enjoyed a break from travel. They depart on carriages. Dickens describes it as going through "mud and mire, and damp, and festering heat, and brake and brush, attended always by the music of frogs and pigs." They reach the town of Belleville.

Belleville is a collection of wooden houses "huddled together in the very heart of bush and swamp." They stay at an inn, where Dickens finds the food served "comfortable." (Almost sounds like the earliest description of "comfort food").

Dickens meets a gentleman from the old country he calls Dr. Crocus. The Endnotes explain that the phrase Dr. Crocus is used for a quack. This Dr. Crocus does sounds like a quack and Dickens has a rather theatrical and amusing "meeting" with him in front of a gathered crowd. A Dickens writes: "Unless I am very much mistaken, a good many people went to the lecture that night, who never thought about phrenology, or about Dr. Crocus either, in all their lives."

From Belleville they travel to Lebanon and Dickens finds the hotel there to be very clean and a good one. They push on to the Prairie a sunset. Here, for the first time, Dickens sees the eastern part of what is The Great Plains. He is disappointed. It was "a vast expanse of level ground, unbroken, save by one thin line of trees. Great as the picture was, its very flatness and extent, which left nothing to the imagination, tamed it down and ramped its interest. I felt little of that sense of freedom and exhilaration."

They return back to Saint Louis by a different way, but Dickens finds it to be much of the same swamp and unseemly growth. They do pass a spot called Bloody Island, a place where private duels were held.

What Dickens saw on this excursion was a small portion of a vast expanse called The Great Plains.



The Dr. Crocus reference, according to my Endnotes, may have been a man named Angus Melrose. No background on him was provided.

Kathleen wrote: "people today change their clothes and bathe much more frequently than earlier generations ..."

That's an excellent point Kathleen! Victorian men used to just change their shirt collars not their shirts, and as you say most fabrics were just brushed (and by the maid). I expect Catherine's maid (I forget her name - John?) would attend to all that and wash their bloomers and small clothes once a week or so perhaps. Dickens did refer to his small clothes once, didn't he, and in tomorrow's chapter he describes his casual outfit.

Bionic Jean wrote: "Kathleen wrote: "people today change their clothes and bathe much more frequently than earlier generations ..."

That's an excellent point Kathleen! Victorian men used to just change their shirt co..."

Catherine’s maid was Anne Brown. I have not seen any background information about her, as I can recall. Scotch-Irish? She did endure everything that this journey tossed at her.

It's interesting that Dickens was underwhelmed by the Great Plains. I've met people from the Midwest that feel claustrophobic in New England because they cannot see around the next bend since we have so many hills and trees. I felt that the scenery was boring when all I could see was miles of flat cornfields when I visited western Michigan. So I think that people compare an area to what they feel comfortable with at home.

I went back to Chapter 11 (from Pittsburg to Cincinnati) to find the pages which I felt held the best writing we’ve read so far in this book. After dining, he and Catherine retire to their “quiet gallery� and he begins to describe the river, really taking time to share and wonder about the scenery they pass. This section includes the episode with the immigrant family leaving the ship with their rocking chair. Otherwise, I think that his actual writing, so far, has been very mundane,

Thank you for the illustration, Jean, of an immigrant family. It even more highlights the writing here.

Connie (on semi-hiatus) wrote: "It's interesting that Dickens was underwhelmed by the Great Plains. I've met people from the Midwest that feel claustrophobic in New England because they cannot see around the next bend since we ha..."

I think this is very true. I once spent a week in Iowa. Given I was from New Jersey, it took a while for me to get used to miles and miles of cornfields. I thought Iowa was nice enough, but in looking back, it was not for me.

Kathleen wrote: "I went back to Chapter 11 (from Pittsburg to Cincinnati) to find the pages which I felt held the best writing we’ve read so far in this book. After dining, he and Catherine retire to their “quiet g..."

This is a good point. There is some unevenness to the writing. It seems to me it correlates to his interest in an area or how it affected him. Some chapters have a feel of personal depth. Other chapters seem like a dry travelogue.

Backtracking a bit to the end of ch 12 (vol 2 ch 4), here is Marcus Stone's 1913 illustration of the young woman Charles Dickens was so taken with, "both little woman and little child were cheerful, good-looking, bright-eyed, and fair to see" and who was so thrilled to be reunited with her husband. Here I think he is looking at his baby, whom he is meeting for the first time:



And thanks John for the reminder of their maid's name - and also the explanation of "Dr Crocus"!

ch 13 (vol 2 ch 5) - Here is Maurice Greiffenhagen's 1898 illustration of "The Traveller at the Inn" from Delaware, going to St. Louis:



"an old man, with a grey, grisly beard two inches long, a shaggy moustache of the same hue, and enormous eyebrows; which almost obscured his lazy, semi-drunken glance, as he stood regarding us with folded arms:"

Those pigs get everywhere! 😂

It's very odd, but I'm listening to a book by the English author J.B. Priestley at the moment, The Good Companions from 1929, and he compares the Fen country here in England with a prairie! As others have said, you usually compare things with what you know, and Charles Dickens is certainly doing this. Since J.B. Priestley won't be likely to have seen a prairie, it seems the wrong way round somehow 🤔

"a hollow land which ever darkness turns into a spectral darkness and monkish ghosts. Something desolating certainly remains, a whisper not to be drowned by the creaking of the heaviest harvest-waggons ... The vague sadness of a prairie has fallen upon this plain of dried marshes. Like a rich man who gives but never smiles, this land yields bountifully but is at heart still a wilderness."

There are great photos of prairies around the world at Wikipedia’s article on them. The first photo would be similar to what Dickens saw, but later in the year. US prairies in the Midwest are not spectacular visions, but marvelous homes for plants, butterflies, other insects and small wildlife.

There is an excellent memoir on prairies in the UK: A Flat Place: Moving Through Empty Landscapes, Naming Complex Trauma by Noreen Masud.

I can't help but think how different Dickens' experiences might have been if he'd come at another time of the year, like late spring or autumn. The weather, of course, would have been more welcoming, but he also would have had wildflowers and butterflies instead of muck and mire; beautiful autumn leaves instead of desolate, barren trees. And better weather might have made some of his fellow travelers more pleasant to interact with. He surely had his reasons for choosing winter and early spring, but next to the heat and humidity of mid to late summer, it was probably the least pleasant time of year for such a journey and his impressions would have been much less favorable.

Thank you Jean and Kathleen for your responses about the clothing, hygiene, etc. I would love to see the book you referenced, Jean. I'm not much on dates and battles, etc., but I love the history of daily living.

Yes, I always felt a journey to the United States that started on January 3 would be a harsh trip. For the eastern US, you really have to reach April for some temperate weather, which meant the first three months were what I like to say about winter � the pits. I think once Dickens had his mind set on the trip, it could not start soon enough.

Kathleen - thanks for the info!

Mary Lou and John - that's a very fair point about the difference a season can make. They always warn holiday-makers not to assume they will enjoy living in their "dream holiday" location, don't they. And having had outdoor-based holidays here at unkind times of the year, I heartily agree 🤔

Also, I keep telling myself that this was 200 years ago! Even on his second visit Dickens said there had been enormous changes.

Kathleen, I have noticed the change once again in the prose after that high point in Chapter 11. I had been hoping that level would continue. Perhaps it will recur if he finds another inspiring area.

"Few people can exist in such a deadly atmosphere"
Dickens certainly didn't mince words describing how much he did not like the prairie or the trip to the prairie.

Personally, I'm quite found of a "chorus of frogs", but not the mosquitos Dickens encountered! I felt so bad for Dickens when I read this:

"and my face and nose profusely ornamented with the stings of mosquitos and the bites of bugs"

Oh, my, poor Charles Dickens, that is awful. I spent my childhood in Illinois, and every summer my arms and legs were covered with mosquito bites. They itch dreadfully! After reading that, all I could do was empathize with Dickens' dreary descriptions of a landscape, even though IMO it is beautiful.

VOLUME TWO
Chapter The Sixth (or Chapter 14)

Return to Cincinnati. A Stagecoach Ride from that City to Columbus, and then to Sandusky by Lake Erie, to the Falls of Niagara.

Dickens writes that he had the desire to travel through the interior of Ohio in order to reach Lake Erie and then Niagara Falls. This involves retracing his journey from Saint Louis to Cincinnati.

They leave Saint Louis by steamboat and journey to a small village "called properly Carondelet, and nicknamed Vide Poche." Vide Poche in French is "empty pocket" and refers to the poverty of the village. They take their repast in a small inn with good food and great cleanliness. Dickens has discussions with the landlord and finds his wife is originally from Philadelphia.

They move onto the Louisville and then in a steamer named the Ben Franklin, they reach Cincinnati. They rested only one day and moved on to Sandusky by stagecoach. They travel through Columbus, which is now the capital of Ohio. Dickens writes about the coachmen and the people they meet at the inns along the way. He finds the spring temperatures to be "delicious."

They reach Sandusky and stay at another inn. Dickens finds his bedchamber to be a low, ghostly room. Dickens writes that his secretary George fled the snoring of strangers, or perhaps mosquitoes, and slept in the coach. They soon hop onto another steamer and leave Sandusky for Buffalo. They arrive in Cleveland. Dickens meets up with a rather strange man who knows him as Boz.

Finally Dickens comes eye to eye with the Falls of Niagara. He is mesmerized by the bright green water. He feels that he I standing near the Creator. He writes: "I think in every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and leap and roar and tumble all day long."

The timeline for this part of the journey is April 21 to April 26. He traveled somewhat similarly as I did when going to Niagara Falls: first to Buffalo and then a hop up northward to the town of Niagara Falls.

I stayed at a hotel only a five minute stroll to the Falls. I walked over one afternoon to a small park, almost just a rocky outcrop, and there it was. It is easy to be taken with it as Dickens was. I was there on a June day and watched the sparkling greenish blue water tumble and tumble. You find yourself humbled.

Dickens' reaction to seeing the Falls was written beautifully. With the spring snow melt, the thunderous falls must have been at their peak. Seeing the beauty and power of nature was a spiritual experience for him.

We have to remember that Dickens was seeing the Falls before all the tourist attractions were added, and before some of the water was diverted for various needs. There weren't even guardrails around the area. It was pure natural beauty in the 1840s.

I saw Niagara Falls back in the 1960s, and it was an experience I'll never forget.

Frederic Church painted his beautiful "Niagara" in 1857. It shows the Horseshoe Falls in Canada.

I have an opinion that Dickens wanted to see Niagara Falls more than any other location on this trip.

Not far from where I grew up is The Great Falls of Paterson, New Jersey. Paterson would have been a good place for Dickens to see. The Great Falls is majestic in its own right. But I may have been so used to it that Niagara Falls was just overwhelming on my own visit.

I found this chapter to be rather dull -- until Dickens got to Niagra. It was difficult for me to imagine what it was like then, before it became commercialized. How truly awesome it must have been! Dickens captured that, probably as best any human could, though describing the Falls with mere words must have been a challenge.

Was anyone else reminded of the Rock Island song from the opening of "The Music Man" when Dickens was telling the "yes, sir" story? :-) Google it, if the link doesn't work for you and you're interested.



And Bridget, I completely agree about the frogs and mosquitoes. I love to hear the peepers at night. But if and when I someday have the privilege of meeting my maker, one of the things I intend to ask Him is what in Heaven's name was he thinking when he created mosquitoes! Nasty little disease-spreading blood suckers!

Connie (on semi-hiatus) wrote: "Dickens' reaction to seeing the Falls was written beautifully. With the spring snow melt, the thunderous falls must have been at their peak. Seeing the beauty and power of nature was a spiritual ex..."

Connie

Thank you for this image of the Falls. I have never seen this painting before. We live in Toronto and everyone from ‘out of town� or country want to see the Falls. They are indeed spectacular.

Mary Lou wrote: "I found this chapter to be rather dull -- until Dickens got to Niagra. It was difficult for me to imagine what it was like then, before it became commercialized. How truly awesome it must have been..."

Mary Lou, good point about the dullness of the chapter until he reaches The Falls. I think because they were retracing the journey back as far as Cincinnati, it seemed like there was not much new to offer other than rather perfunctory descriptions of the inns.

Chapter 12: There were so many interesting stories in this chapter, and Dickens introduced people I had never heard of before: the erudite Choctaw chief Peter Pitchlynn (who unfortunately is not well known in our history books) and the Kentucky Giant (the one Dickens met was Jim Porter who was 7'6", but there was another Kentucky Giant by the name of Martin Van Buren Bates, who was 7'9", served in the Civil War and died at the age of 81). As a bit of trivia, another well-known genetic phenomenon in Kentucky is the Blue Fugate family of Troublesome Creek, KY as a result of genetic mutation within an isolated community.



I loved reading Dickens' account of traveling by steamboat down the Mississippi River in 1842. It described perfectly what Mark Twain experienced when he first apprenticed as a river boat pilot... there were no landmarks to tell them where they were, the power of the river was so great that the river was constantly shifting course, so night travel was reserved for very experienced river boat pilots who had "learned" the river as much as possible. It must have been a hair raising experience for Dickens, constantly hearing the logs hitting the boat at night!

Chapter 13: My husband and I followed the Oregon Trail several years ago on a month-long journey, and we found the vastness of the Great Plains so beautiful, and the endless sky almost overwhelming! There is nothing to compare to it. It makes you feel so small! Dickens' journey almost predates the first great migrations on the Oregon Trail, so he was really describing what the first migrant wagon trains experienced. I love that he added his experience to this history.

Does anyone know if Dickens was referring to a covered wagon - or something else - when he wrote: I walked into a village, where I met a full-sized dwelling-house coming downhill at a round trot, drawn by a score or more of oxen...Rising at five o'clock next morning, I took a walk about the village: none of the houses were strolling to-day, but it was early for them yet, perhaps..."? I found this observation so funny! There is really no telling what Dickens thought of all of these American innovations!

Regarding bathing and cleanliness, I remembered a photo I took at the Warp Museum in Hastings, Nebraska. The museum contains an enormous collection of American innovations (housed in 20 buildings). In the museum was an old wooden bathtub. Next to the bathtub was a sign which explained that the very first bath tub in the United States was built in Cincinnati in December 1842! It received quite a bit of criticism as "Cincinnati doctors were quick to condemn this outrageous contraption and local politicians slapped a $30 tax on the luxury. Water rates were raised in Boston and a law was passed forbidding the use of a bath tub during the cold winter months as a health hazard. Bath tubs did not catch on until 28 years after its introduction!

Bionic Jean wrote: "Several biographers include details, but the most complete account is in The Life of Charles Dickens, Vol. 3 by John Forster, chapters 15 and 16. ..."

Thank you for this information, Jean. You are right. I do have Forster's book, but I had only read the portions that concern books I've already read (so as to avoid spoilers). I did find Chapters 15 and 16, and will try to read them this weekend. I'm currently reading the chapters on his 1842 trip, and I must say these chapters have vastly improved my understanding and pleasure of American Notes. Thank you for reminding me of Forster's biography!

Unlike Mary Lou, I found parts of this chapter rather intriguing. I was fascinated by one of the stage coach rides which starts with “at one time we were all flung together in a heap at the bottom of the coach..� I read that section to family.