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The Cook and the Gardener: Recipes and Writings from France
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The unique, award-winning cookbook—a collection of seasonal recipes from a traditional French garden.
The Cook and the Gardener is Amanda Hesser's first book. From the opening lines of its introduction, her literary gifts are as evident as her passion for good food. Since this work combines recipes with her essays about Monsieur Milbert (the gardener at the Chateau du Fey in Burgundy, where Hesser worked as the cook), readers get to enjoy both of her talents.
The Cook and the Gardener is Amanda Hesser's first book. From the opening lines of its introduction, her literary gifts are as evident as her passion for good food. Since this work combines recipes with her essays about Monsieur Milbert (the gardener at the Chateau du Fey in Burgundy, where Hesser worked as the cook), readers get to enjoy both of her talents.
Hesser worked hard to get M. Milbert to talk with her. She shares the careful, deliberate way she wooed him, sometimes by bringing freshly baked bread to his less mobile wife, sometimes by holding back questions she wanted to ask, just to win his tolerance of her presence. Crusty, surly, and tradition-bound, he is the quintessential French peasant. Fortunately, Hesser--who is respectful and patient even when M. Milbert's stubborn ways exasperated her--knows he is an almost-vanished breed. None of his children, or anyone else, is likely to work as he has, continuing to live mainly off the land for nearly 60 years.
Each chapter covers a month, starting with March, when the nearly 400-year-old walled garden comes to life. Hesser talks about the garden, how she used the bounty gathered by M. Milbert, and muses on life in and around Burgundy. In September, "the rains seemed to clean off and illuminate the plants' colors ... everything seemed to wake up, as after a hot, cranky nap." The final tomatoes are harvested, as are the green and butter beans, with Milbert sneakily keeping the best for himself. Hesser visits a neighbor's Portuguese-style garden, as exuberant and vivid as Milbert's is restrained and disciplined. She cooks sautéed red snapper with tomatoes, fennel, and vermouth; makes a profound Tomato Consommé; and slow roasts tomatoes into meltingly tender mounds.
Sepia drawings by Kate Gridley add to the low-key charm of this information-packed work. (It even includes a history of purslane going back to the Middle Ages.)
The knowledge and maturity of this work belie Hesser's youth. Not yet 30 at the time of writing, she's a wise cook worth following. --Dana Jacobi
640 pages, Hardcover
First published March 17, 1999
15 people are currently reading
4,894 people want to read
About the author
Amanda Hesser
29Ìýbooks81ÌýfollowersAmanda Hesser has been a food columnist and editor at the New York Times for more than a decade. She is the author of the award-winning Cooking for Mr. Latte and The Cook and the Gardener and edited the essay collection Eat, Memory. Hesser is also the co-founder of food52.com. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband, Tad Friend, and their two children.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 38 reviews
October 31, 2008
Amanda Hesser writes a series of charming vignettes about life as the resident chef at a chateau in the French countryside. It's a little overly-cheery and static, but then it's not meant to be a commentary on French life, or a true exploration of characters. Its primary focus is on cooking, which is why I bought the book in the first place. Each month of the year has a corresponding chapter of recipes, with a great deal of in-depth instruction, some fantastic old-world cooking lore, and the rustic hands-on approach you'd expect from a woman who has to make do with the materials at hand. I love the "make it from scratch" approach- the book is full of authentic ingredients and steps that come out best if you just invest the necessary effort. There are very few appliances or gadgets to buy, and the ingredients are usually common (with the exception of duck, goose, and other cuts of meat that are more available in Europe than suburban America.) I enjoyed the ongoing episodes with Monsieur Milbert and the constant awareness of season. We expect strawberries to be ripe year-round, which is absurd. Eat foods when they are ripe!
Overall, I found it fascinating.
Also, the woman who did the illustrations was fantastic!
Overall, I found it fascinating.
Also, the woman who did the illustrations was fantastic!
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January 24, 2009This is not a new cookbook (in fact, it's ten years old this year!) but it is my favorite! Amanda Hesser is a former New York Times food columnist and this book charts a year she spent with a farmer and his wife, learning to farm and cook. The book is divided up seasonally, and each season into months. Filled with great stories of her quirky hosts as well as recipes that have never once failed me. It is a book I return to again and again, even if just to while away a morning drinking coffee and dreaming of the garden.
Joe
Joe
December 6, 2021
What a gem of a book. So much more than a cookbook. Well worth the reading of her Introduction and other musings on food, gardening and cooking.
Amanda Hesser found herself in the enviable position of cooking for Anne Willan in the Burgundy region of France. She takes us on a armchair tour of this region, it’s people (specifically it’s gardeners) and food.
Which came first-the chateau or the garden? More specifically the garden and the well. Food and water. Without which a grand chateau would have been pointless. As Hesser says: “this garden’s prosperity was vital to the family living in the chateau - basic truth all do well to heed. Food doesn’t come from a grocery store.�
This book is like the ‘Secret Garden� for adults. Only a few paragraphs into the introduction and I’m hooked. It combines one persons love of gardening with another’s love of cooking. Or is it one’s love of the earth combined with another’s love of food?
We make the acquaintance of Monsieur Milbert, the caretaker of the chateau’s kitchen garden. He understands the inner workings of the soil, the seasons…how they combine to give us harvest. His life is tied to a time when real thought was given to how we live our lives. His life was directly connected to the earth. The fact that not many of us understand this is brought to the fore by his unwillingness to allow none, but a select few, into his world. Enter a young woman who is his counterpart in the kitchen. She understands food is more than just fuel. It is a gift that brings one satisfaction and inner well-being when prepared at the proper time. Hesser is drawn into this forbidden garden to learn the facts of what she innately knows. Her humility and respect are note-worthy in this day and age.
It made me think of how, perhaps, we all have the love of earth within; but the world we live in-fast paced, high tech-has shoved it so far aside it’s hard to know it’s there.
Milbert tends the soil, not just taking, but giving back. Nurturing, appreciating. Resonating themes we are hearing more and more on environmental issues.
I have friends who have one of the loveliest gardens I ever seen. It is not typical for Houston, TX. I’m sure there are more elaborate gardens, more exotic. Gardens meant to impress. But this one pulls you in because of the two people who care for it. (Interestingly they have traveled extensively in France and perhaps there is some influence?) It is not merely utilitarian. Planted among the vegetables scattered with herbs, flowers are tucked, fruit trees , chickens, water features�.you are transported to another time and place.
Some people are born knowing. For those of us who weren’t, but have the desire, how wonderful is the gift of their acquaintance. Each spring I await word that the garden is about to explode in bloom. Today!! A walk through this small Eden, a simple lunch, a visit with both while enjoying the porch swing. The dog and cats vying for attention at your feet. The smell of earth. Of growing. Of life.
This cookbook conjures up way more than just recipes. It helps us learn the seasons of the vegetable so we know when and what to look for. There are notes on shopping for fruits and vegetables. Cooking Notes explain exactly what she means when she asks for certain ingredients so we don’t wonder.
As a final note Hesser did not cook in the more ‘substantial� manner of the area, taking rather a lighter tack (olive oil instead of cream or butter). Which is fine with me and just as tasty!
Amanda Hesser found herself in the enviable position of cooking for Anne Willan in the Burgundy region of France. She takes us on a armchair tour of this region, it’s people (specifically it’s gardeners) and food.
Which came first-the chateau or the garden? More specifically the garden and the well. Food and water. Without which a grand chateau would have been pointless. As Hesser says: “this garden’s prosperity was vital to the family living in the chateau - basic truth all do well to heed. Food doesn’t come from a grocery store.�
This book is like the ‘Secret Garden� for adults. Only a few paragraphs into the introduction and I’m hooked. It combines one persons love of gardening with another’s love of cooking. Or is it one’s love of the earth combined with another’s love of food?
We make the acquaintance of Monsieur Milbert, the caretaker of the chateau’s kitchen garden. He understands the inner workings of the soil, the seasons…how they combine to give us harvest. His life is tied to a time when real thought was given to how we live our lives. His life was directly connected to the earth. The fact that not many of us understand this is brought to the fore by his unwillingness to allow none, but a select few, into his world. Enter a young woman who is his counterpart in the kitchen. She understands food is more than just fuel. It is a gift that brings one satisfaction and inner well-being when prepared at the proper time. Hesser is drawn into this forbidden garden to learn the facts of what she innately knows. Her humility and respect are note-worthy in this day and age.
It made me think of how, perhaps, we all have the love of earth within; but the world we live in-fast paced, high tech-has shoved it so far aside it’s hard to know it’s there.
Milbert tends the soil, not just taking, but giving back. Nurturing, appreciating. Resonating themes we are hearing more and more on environmental issues.
I have friends who have one of the loveliest gardens I ever seen. It is not typical for Houston, TX. I’m sure there are more elaborate gardens, more exotic. Gardens meant to impress. But this one pulls you in because of the two people who care for it. (Interestingly they have traveled extensively in France and perhaps there is some influence?) It is not merely utilitarian. Planted among the vegetables scattered with herbs, flowers are tucked, fruit trees , chickens, water features�.you are transported to another time and place.
Some people are born knowing. For those of us who weren’t, but have the desire, how wonderful is the gift of their acquaintance. Each spring I await word that the garden is about to explode in bloom. Today!! A walk through this small Eden, a simple lunch, a visit with both while enjoying the porch swing. The dog and cats vying for attention at your feet. The smell of earth. Of growing. Of life.
This cookbook conjures up way more than just recipes. It helps us learn the seasons of the vegetable so we know when and what to look for. There are notes on shopping for fruits and vegetables. Cooking Notes explain exactly what she means when she asks for certain ingredients so we don’t wonder.
As a final note Hesser did not cook in the more ‘substantial� manner of the area, taking rather a lighter tack (olive oil instead of cream or butter). Which is fine with me and just as tasty!
January 3, 2010
This is one book that, the more I read, the more I disliked the author! She writes about her experience as a chef in the French country side and her relationship with the gardener and his wife. Sometimes she can be charming, but...sometimes she is annoying. I tried putting the book down and coming back to it, but after a few tries I decided that the problem was not in me, but in Amanda Hesser. Later on, I read John Thorne's review of the book and was relieved to discover that he felt the same way. If you like Amanda's reviews in the NY Times, you may like her book.
I'm sorry to say that she didn't grow on me.
I'm sorry to say that she didn't grow on me.
November 4, 2009
I could see why Hesser is compared to M.K. Fisher. Her earlier style was very Fisher esque. I enjoyed cooking for Mr. Latte more. I don't think the author found her style yet with this book. I felt it was more of a cook book. I was having a difficult time following her story about the gardner. Though I do understand that most people who eat do not realize there is a farmer who had raised whatever they are eating on their plate.
July 7, 2019
Borrowed from the library - and had to have it. If you're dedicated to seasonal eating or love to grow the food you eat, then I suspect you'll enjoy this book.
One of my favorite things to do at the beginning of each month is to read that months entry and cruise the recipes. Have only made a few, but I'm more of an inspirational recipe reader than a follower 😉
One of my favorite things to do at the beginning of each month is to read that months entry and cruise the recipes. Have only made a few, but I'm more of an inspirational recipe reader than a follower 😉
February 18, 2022
I rarely read and enjoy cookbooks anymore, but this warmly narrative work, arranged by the seasons of the garden was a real pleasure. Hesser is not only a skillful writer but has a delightful personality that shines through her stories.
As a gardener who also cooks, I found the combination of these interests in one book, from people who were dedicated to excellence and connected to the past an exceptional treat. It was fun to discover that the mache plants I'd planted on a whim and had been halfheartedly keeping alive in my garden, are actually a gourmet treasure and can be made into delicious recipes. The little nuggets of expertise on just how to slice or blanch certain vegetables and how to handle them at different levels of maturity are just the thing I really want to know from a cookbook. Thank you, Amanda.
As a gardener who also cooks, I found the combination of these interests in one book, from people who were dedicated to excellence and connected to the past an exceptional treat. It was fun to discover that the mache plants I'd planted on a whim and had been halfheartedly keeping alive in my garden, are actually a gourmet treasure and can be made into delicious recipes. The little nuggets of expertise on just how to slice or blanch certain vegetables and how to handle them at different levels of maturity are just the thing I really want to know from a cookbook. Thank you, Amanda.
June 16, 2024
There’s a bit of a know-it-all tone to this book. In spite of that I liked the snippets of old French culinary history that are included throughout - especially a nice touch since Amanda was living and working in an old chateau for a year. I want to try about half a dozen recipes she shares. The best parts of the text are her descriptions of making classic French beverages: drying linden flowers for tea, the apple cider press, and the cassis liquor.
August 4, 2020
I enjoyed this book which in her introduction the author, Amanda Hesser, describes the garden and her growing friendship with the crusty gardener at the chateau in which she cooks. I would have liked to have read more about the gardener, as his story was fascinating. Also would have liked to have had some photos of the garden as well as the chateau. The discussion about the foods- potatoes, onions, turnips, etc.- is interesting and helpful. But a bit awkward to get to within the recipes.
December 7, 2024
I'm reading this for the gardening portions not the cooking part. I skip over the recipes. The "Cook" is the narrator- a cook at a large villa in France. She has to have frequent interactions with the crusty French gardener and gives many descriptions of his methods.
July 17, 2020
What a beautiful book. I was completely charmed by the moody Monsieur Milbert and his garden. The recipes and illustrations are gorgeous.
March 8, 2024
Bliss! If you like gardening and cooking this is a beautiful book to read and re read!
December 24, 2011
This is a really lovely book that captures the author's experience working as a chef in Burgundy, and getting to know the elderly gardener who grew all the vegetables she cooked. Amanda Hesser carefully observes the passing of the seasons and the changes brought to the garden and her stove. I liked reading about each month, what vegetables were harvested, and how she used them in her cuisine. These days I read a lot of food blogs, and none are as well written as this book. I always like reading Amanda Hesser's food writing in the New York Times, and it was fun to read a whole book from an earlier time in her life. I also tried a couple of her recipes, and love the unusual way she baked bread with branches of rosemary pressed into the loaf.
December 6, 2012
This book was so delectable that I had to purposefully slow myself down in order to savor it more fully. The book is part novel, part gardening treatise, part cookbook. The story begins in March. The reader should also! Follow the book along with the seasons and cook the recipes provided (the peach pie is the BEST you will ever, ever eat). A fabulous read. Don't pick it up if you are hungry. On second thought, do! It is inspiring.
August 6, 2014
Love reading about the food and garden, but sometimes the tone was like a cranky schoolteacher. For example: "If you do not have a jelly bag, you should buy one. They are inexpensive, and homemade alternatives are not only less stable and dangerous, they're a pain to make." Dangerous? Really? I am laughing so hard as I wonder how a "jelly bag" (I have no idea what that is) can be dangerous.
The recipes and some of the guidance seems dated.
The recipes and some of the guidance seems dated.
May 14, 2020
As both a cook and a gardener, I like this book very much. You don't have to be either to feel the same. A year's worth of experience and recipes gleaned from a congenial dalliance on a French country estate between an elder live-in gardener and a younger American chef, training in French cuisine.
This volume is fat; its simple & seasonal cooking made me everything but.
Enjoy this as a kitchen shelf reference to cook from year round for years to come.
This volume is fat; its simple & seasonal cooking made me everything but.
Enjoy this as a kitchen shelf reference to cook from year round for years to come.
August 25, 2008
I haven't tried the recipes yet, but most of them look great. Nice recollection of the author's year serving as a cook in Burgundy, her evolving relationship with a rather cantankerous but gifted gardener. This book is a good reminder of how much we miss by not being as connected to our food (planting and harvesting it, preparing it).
Want to read
April 14, 2009I loved Cooking for Mr. Latte, and was super excited to find this one on the shelf at The Strand in 2007. However, I have yet to read it all the way through. I'm attempting to do so now by reading it month by month. The book starts in March, not January, so my reading will be a bit convoluted, but I'm looking forward to it and to taking it into the kitchen.
July 26, 2011
I started this with some disappointment -- I had thought it was a book of food essays and not a cookbook format, but then it turned out to have so much writing about food in it that I was happily surprised. I especially enjoyed the seasonal aspect to it, and just read straight through, taking in the recipes as I went. A beautiful book for cooks, gardeners, and those who love to eat good food.
January 22, 2012
A glorious description of a young cook's experience in France, especially her relationship with the gardener who provides her raw material. Anyone serious about cooking has probably already read it but it was wonderful even if I came late to the table. Full of wonderful recipies I'll never make but loved reading.
July 25, 2011
this is whimsically romantic in the french countryside. I love how the author has to befriend the grumpy gardener. She has fantastic recipies and observations. Great book-almost more of a memoir than anything. I love it.
March 27, 2009
Young American cook meets old French gardener. Respect slowly develops. More for reading than for cooking inspiration, given the butter and cream involved (isn't that usually the case?)
I'm dipping in month by month, for seasonality.
I'm dipping in month by month, for seasonality.
May 7, 2009
I'm reading this for the gardening portions not the cooking part. I skip over the recipes. The "Cook" is the narrator- a cook at a large villa in France. She has to have frequent interactions with the crusty French gardener and gives many descriptions of his methods.
December 20, 2009
Almost a book of hours for devotees of France, Burgundy, cooking and gardening. This beautifully presented book deserves a place on the bookshelf next to Colette's Earthly Paradise and is one I will be dipping into for some time.
June 19, 2009
One of my all time favorites - not so much for the recipes but for the writing, the gardening and reading about the food. I pull this off my bookshelf with every change of the seasons. It inspired me to garden and think differently about food and the turning of the seasons.
November 29, 2011
I've read this book more than once. Amanda Hesser is a great writer.
She tells of living in France and having to go out each day to get produce from the stubborn old gardener who ends up being her friend in the end.
She tells of living in France and having to go out each day to get produce from the stubborn old gardener who ends up being her friend in the end.
September 1, 2012
While the prose is an extra feature, to me, the real value of the book is in the recipes. All I have tried have been wonderful. There are several simple, basic recipes, as well as more involved ones. They are organized by season and month. I have referred to this cookbook often over the years.
March 18, 2009
This is an excellent cookbook. We use this at home all the time. Highly reccommended, esp. if you are trying to eat seasonally. The memoir is amusing, as well.
June 5, 2010
I found this title on the Cooked Books blog (all things culinary at the New York Public Library). It is the "Desert Island" selection of NYPL's Rare Books Librarian, Jessica Pigza.
Want to read
June 13, 2010found while browsing a bookstore.
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