ŷ������

“It tugs at me, filling me with the kind of seasick nostalgia that can hit you in the gut when you find an old concert ticket in your purse or an old coin machine ring you got down at the boardwalk on a day when you went searching for mermaids in the surf with your best friend.

That punch of nostalgia hits me now and I start to sink down on the sky-coloured quilt, feeling the nubby fabric under my fingers, familiar as the topography of my hand.”
― Brenna Ehrlich, Placid Girl

“In a moment I might be under the wave swallowing seawater and small jellyfish, but right now I am an ancient princess of Hawaii, I am a bikini model, I am a goddess before the crest of a monster billow.”
― Wilma Johnson, Surf Mama - One Woman's Search for Love, Happiness and the Perfect Wave

“You could not stop times from changing, his mother said, no more than you could stop the surf from rolling.”
― Brandon Sanderson, Sixth of the Dusk

“Her pace is furious as she walks along the beach, the surf competing with the noise in her head.”
― Anita Shreve, Sea Glass

“Lex surfed wicked, like the devil. He wasn’t afraid of anything, seemed like. He grinned at West as the waves came up toward them like towers of green glass, an emerald city. We’re off to see the wizard, he shouted. He whooped. His body crouched ready to fly. He shone against the sun.”
― Francesca Lia Block, Wasteland

“Sarò naufrago di mestiere, ogni giorno, ogni notte della mia vita. Sempre.”
― Anna Giraldo, Meet you on the other side: Un luogo del cuore

“Thich Nhat Hanh. a venerated Vietnamese Buddhist, speaks of a solution that is so utterly simple it seems profane.

Be, body and mind, exactly where you are. That is, practice a mindfulness that makes you aware of each moment. Think to yourself, "I am breathing" when you're breathing; "I am anxious" when you're anxious; even, "I am washing the dishes" when you're washing the dishes. To be totally into this moment is the goal of mindfulness. Right now is precious and shall never pass this way again.

A wave is a precious moment, amplified: a dynamic natural sculpture that shall never pass this way again. Out interaction with waves - to be fully in the moment, without relationship troubles, bills, or worries - is what frees us. Each moment that we are fully with waves is evidence of our ability to live in the here and now. There is nothing else in the universe when you're making that elegant bottom turn.

Here. Now. Simple, but so elusive.

A wave demands your attention. It is very difficult to be somewhere else, in your mind, when there is such a gorgeous creation of nature moving your way. Just being close to a wave brings us closer to being mindful. To surf them is the training ground for mindfulness. The ocean can seem chaotic, like the world we live in. But somehow we're forced to slice through the noise - to paddle around and through the adversities of life and get directly to the joy. This is what we need for liberation.”
― Kia Afcari, Sister Surfer: A Woman's Guide To Surfing With Bliss And Courage

“So slip on your goggles and your reading trunks, for the sun is high. Let me leave you with one more thought. In what season of the year do we find ourselves - I'm speaking for a moment in terms of the physical world - wading through things? Surf. Kelp. Books. Summer.”
― Roy Blount Jr., Where Books Fall Open: A Reader's Anthology of Wit & Passion

“Out of the kitchen, and into the surf.”
― Wilma Johnson, Surf Mama - One Woman's Search for Love, Happiness and the Perfect Wave

“È bello come stare qui?
Certo, è bello. Come l’onda, ti prende e ti porta con sé, ti travolge, ti stringe nelle sue spire, ti sommerge, e non sai più farne a meno.
Come la vita? Come svegliarsi al mattino e sentire che hai un corpo da nutrire, come respirare, Jay, è bello come respirare?
Chiusi gli occhi e cercai di riportare alla mente la sensazione che provavo quando, dopo essere stato disarcionato, riemergevo senza fiato e pieno di dolori per gli schiaffi presi dalle onde.
Ciò che avevo sentito facendo sesso somigliava più al trionfo di pochi istanti, sopra un’onda buona, ma troppo docile per dare tempo all’adrenalina di percorrerti tutto. Forse�� forse per amore. Per amore, forse, avrebbe potuto essere bello come svegliarsi al mattino e sentire che hai un corpo da nutrire. Per amore avrebbe potuto essere come il sollievo quando finalmente si ritrova il pelo dell’acqua dopo il naufragio. Ma non mi era mai accaduto per amore.
Si girò e mi guardò corrucciato. Fu un solo istante, poi riportò lo sguardo alla strada.
Jay, se si chiama “fare l’amore��, come puoi farlo senza amore?”
― Anna Giraldo, Meet you on the other side: Un luogo del cuore

“Avevo vissuto una vita cercando un miraggio, Eli, con un vuoto dentro, come una voragine. Affrontai l’onda più alta e non potei accettare di essere ancora vivo, eppure solo questo seppi fare, aprire gli occhi la mattina e richiuderli la sera, non sapevo perché fossi sopravvissuto, non sapevo perché a me fosse stata concessa un’altra possibilità. L’onda mi aveva portato talmente lontano dalla mia rotta che nulla valeva più la pena.”
― Anna Giraldo, Meet you on the other side: Un luogo del cuore

“Start netiquette conventions by emulating good users. NetworkEtiquette.net”
― David Chiles

“Christ," he said to the tiny reflection of himself that floated along the surface of his coffee,
"You have become quite the maudlin sop, haven't you? Laughing softly, he rubbed a hand over his face.
Step one on the road back to sanity, stop talking to yourself.”
― Kristen Callihan, Winterblaze

“Svako ko bi bar na trenutak bacio pogled na tu magičnu pistu ka zvezdama morao bi osetiti da ga taj prizor u isto vreme očarava svojom lepotom, ali i uznemirava svojom snagom kojom iskrada misli i osećanja iz najmračnijih dubina posmatračeve duše. Kao tajne prvih poljubaca iz senki Tašmajdanskog parka, odnosi ih na svom talasu, ostavljajući ih tamo negde gore, možda u poverenje zvezdama, a možda i na tezge Cvetkove pijace, da se razvlače kao jeftina roba u bescenje.”
― Aleksandar Đuričić Ash, Surf na crvenom talasu